In the midst of Sudan’s war, Port Sudan is quickly becoming into a key centre. Lyse Doucet, the Chief International Correspondent for the BBC, took part in the most recent evacuation effort to Jeddah.
As HMS Al Diriyah approached Sudan’s coast in the dead of night, Saudi officers turned on sweeping searchlights to ensure the warship’s safe entry into a harbour that was quickly developing into a major evacuation and humanitarian hub in the country’s escalating crisis.
Even at two in the morning, two more massive ships were anchored offshore at Port Sudan, the country’s largest port, waiting to participate in this global rescue operation.
Hassan Faraz from Pakistan told us, obviously shaken, “I feel so relieved but also so sad to be part of this history.”
The HMS Al Diriyah travelled from the Saudi port city of Jeddah for ten hours through the night before arriving at the quayside on a Saudi tugboat. Rare access was granted to a select group of foreign journalists so they could short visit the troubled Sudan.
While waiting in queue on the pier for passports to be compared to the Saudi manifest, Faraz thought, “People will be talking about these events for many years to come.” This time, a large number of young South Asian labourers claimed to have waited for three days here after two arduous weeks in this hellish battle zone.
Another Pakistani guy described having “seen so much, so many bomb blasts and firing” after claiming to have worked at a foundry in Sudan. Then, too traumatised to continue, he remained silent while gazing into the water.
The Rapid Support Forces (RSF), a paramilitary organisation led by Gen. Mohamed Hamdan Dagalo, better known as Hemedti, and the Sudanese army, under the command of Gen. Abdel Fattah al-Burhan, have been engaged in a pitched power struggle in recent weeks.
“Port Sudan has fared relatively better in this war,” said my British-Sudanese colleague Mohanad Hashim. The first day of fighting barely started here on April 15, but already this port city is overrun by refugees from Khartoum and other areas.
Sudan war: As the truce in Khartoum collapses, airstrikes and combat resume.
Conflict in Sudan: Evacuation of diplomats and foreign nationals
We had just sailed by the elegant Naval Club, which had been converted into a tent city for the displaced. As they search for an exit, many people are currently camped out on the streets. People with passports from all over the world are flooding local hotels, and emergency consular services have been swiftly set up by embassies that have evacuated the majority of their staff from the capital.
Many people worry there is no escape. People with less fortunate passports, such as Yemenis, Syrians, and Sudanese, are in abundance in Port Sudan.
3,000 Yemenis, mostly students, have been stranded in Port Sudan for several weeks. A security advisor attempting to assist them in returning to their own war-torn country confessed that “the Saudis are rescuing some Yemenis but they’re nervous about accepting large numbers.”
Many travellers who arrive in the kingdom of Saudi are given a brief hotel stay. However, it is made clear that their own nations are anticipated to soon foot the bill and coordinate further travel.
In an effort to spot any of his own Sudanese relatives who might be trying to flee, Mohanad Hashim combed the pier at Port Sudan. He unexpectedly found himself embracing a cousin who had arrived in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, together with two of his teenage children, after an 18-hour voyage over the Red Sea, the day before, at the King Faisal naval base where we had started our adventure.
The moment is bittersweet for Sudanese with foreign passports who reach safe harbour.
Rasha begged for assistance while wearing a pink scarf, one child dozing on her shoulder, and three more waving flowers that Saudi soldiers had distributed. She pleaded with us, “Please tell the world to protect Sudan.” Gunfire broke on the morning of April 15 near Sport City in Khartoum, where their family had been living.
Leen, her eight-year-old daughter, described the home invasion of armed guys in great detail while speaking with an American accent and perfect English. She said with teenage bravado, “We had to all hide, all ten of us, in the back room. “I didn’t panic. Since we couldn’t make any noise, I refrained from crying.
Her younger sibling said, “They were horrible, bad guys. Her father identified the perpetrators as RSF agents. The majority of the violence and looting are attributed to their gunmen.
Deeply held personal and political resentments as well as the opposing interests and influence of major countries are all contributing factors to the intensifying and extremely concerning battle between Sudan’s two most powerful men.
Heavyweights in the region, such as Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, have long provided financial support for Hemedti, who became even wealthier by deploying troops to fight for them in the early stages of their disastrous conflict with Yemen’s Houthis.
However, Riyadh has recently grown close to Gen. Burhan and has longstanding connections to the Sudanese army. In a nation with abundant mineral wealth and agricultural potential, there is also a complicated political geography that involves Egypt, Israel, and Russia, as well as the mercenary Wagner organisation.
However, in the current crisis, where the United States, Britain, and other potential peacemakers are also interjecting, it is now said that outside powers are speaking with a single voice in an effort to stop this dangerous spiral and the immense suffering of civilians.
Diplomats thank Saudi Arabia for its assistance with the evacuation. More than 5,000 people, representing 100 different nationalities, have already crossed the Red Sea on Saudi warships or private boats that the Saudi military has rented. Even Iranians were included in the largest single operation on Saturday, which carried close to 2,000 passengers. Riyadh and Tehran, arch-rivals, recently took tentative steps towards reconciliation, including reopening their embassies and consulates.
“Our good fortune. As she and her husband, an engineer who has spent years working as an engineer in Sudan, disembarked in Jeddah, 32-year-old civil engineer Nazli said, “We hope there will be peace between our countries.
On Sunday, as another crowded tugboat in Port Sudan sailed through rough waters to a waiting Saudi warship, its passengers turned in unison to bid a final farewell to a nation they regretted, with pain, that they might never go back to.
